The Erobertparker bulletin board has been great source for information on wines from anywhere in the world, but far surpassing any tasting note or Cabernet recommendation is its ability to create new friendships. Last night Lenny and Susan Fox hosted a handful of winos in their beautiful home. Turkish cuisine and red Burgundies from 2005 was the theme. I have had many types of foods in my life, but never Turkish. I wish I could tell what I had, but it was all tasty and well prepared. Any country that has a version of pizza can’t be all that bad. I made some new friends, put some faces to familiar names, as well as seeing old friends again. It was a wonderful time and I want to thank Susan and Lenny for their graciousness in opening their home and making this possible.
Now onto the wines:
2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges VV; Medium dark color. The nose of red cherries and crushed stones. Smooth finessful tannins carried this along deftly. This was wonderful & elegant. A long finish completed the package. A stunner; 94/100 (My WOTN).
2005 Domaine Ligier Michelot Morey St Denis VV; A subdued nose of flowers and red fruits. This was very fruit forward, dark cherries & raspberries. Wonderful structure, chewy tannins, and a slightly raised acid level. A masculine St Denis. 91/100
2005 Domaine Jablot Givry “Clos des Cellier aux Moines”; this started somewhat awkward, but some time in the glass gave it grace. Amazing dark fruits and wonderful structure. Some tar and anise. A well-aligned tannin level wrapped around a refined (slightly elevated) acid level. This was a beautiful Givry. Very different than anything before or after it on this night. 93/100
2005 Domaine Joseph Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin “Leas Marchais”; this had the most wonderful nose of red cherries, and pebbles. A nicely balanced acid level combined with a nicely structured tannin level wrapped within layers upon layers of sweet red fruits. A dry finish hurt this a bit. 88/100
2005 Domaine Perrot-Minot Vosne Romanee; Some great black fruits and a nice balance of acid and fine intertwined tannins. This was a very clean Vosne, if not noteworthy. 89/100
2005 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanee; corked
2005 Domaine Daniel Rion "Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts"; (thanks Suzanne for the name clarification as my notes were smeared). This was the funky wine of the night. There were some red fruits, but they were masked by the elevated alcohol and funky cellar floor. Wine like this I always attribute to sloppy winemaking techniques. N/A
2005 Maison Bouchard Pere et Fils Volnay “Caillerets- Ancienne Cuvee Carnot”; this was the most fragrant wine of the bunch; flowers, cherries, stones, and tar. Wow. A nice acid level alongside a sweet refined tannin level made this a pretty wine. Great structure and long finish. Did I say wow? 92/100
2005 Domaine Michel Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Seuvrees VV”; Sulphur nose that only opened up a bit with air. The darkest wine of the night. Once past the nose this had big chewy tannins and a bold structure of deep red & black fruits. (Super dark cherries and currants). Of all the night’s wines, this needs the most bottle time. Very masculine and brooding. 89/100
From this cross section of wines, I can humbly say the promise is real.
2005 will deliver for the patient, and not so patient. (for which I am usually the latter). Wonderful fruit and seamless balance is the recurring element in all of these wines. Anyone interested in getting to know Burgundies better will find lots to love here.
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Friday, January 25, 2008
Aussie Shiraz: Maybe I was wrong after all?
There is one tasting I try not to miss every year; it’s the ‘Wine Australia Festival New York’. This is when Australia comes half way around the world to show metro area distributors, restaurateurs and retailers what they have to offer.
I show up half heartily and with a sour stomach to taste through these wines yesterday (1/24/2008). I must be nuts, right? Wrong.
I found some very interesting stuff amongst the ocean of typical Shiraz and blends. I have been very critical as of late, and may have been rough on Aussie Shiraz. For the most part, I do believe that the winemakers are adjusting toward the elegant styled, and leaving the bombastic style behind, and my tasting notes from yesterday reflects my thinking on this subject.
Too many of these wines were still monstrous fruit bombs though. I never changed my glass more than I did this day. The residue made my glass almost opaque on more than one occasion.
I worked my way around looking for familiar names first. I came across Green Point & Cape Mentelle. The latter was offering the 2004 Margaret River Shiraz, which was pretty great. Even better than the Reserve Shiraz which I found dry and austere. The Shiraz is from the Margaret River region on western Australia. Great blueberries and violets with smooth cocoa atop a wonderful mouth feel and lush tannin base. This is a complex wine with a great finish. I doubted the price and looked thrice, $25. 90/100. My second ‘find’ is the Yering Station 2005 Reserve Shiraz Viognier: This had a wonderful super elegance with boysenberry, white pepper, and blueberry. The Viognier added a slight floral note. This was a deep serious wine that goes on forever. I like the fact that it did not have a catchy name other than Shiraz Viognier. Very Rhone like, but keeping its roots firmly in Australia. A tremendous winner. 95/100. Next up was the 2004 Tintara Shiraz Reserve: I always have found the Tintara line-up a great qpr, and this Reserve is no different. The difference lies in its amazing classy styling of fruits and tannic structure. Wonderful refined dark fruits surrounded by the most deft tannin level I have ever experienced in a Tintara. Breed and finesse is abounding here. 93/100 ($50). My fourth ‘revelation’ wine is very different but still Shiraz: the 2005 Tyrrell’s wines DB 24: This was probably the single best wine I have ever tasted coming out of Australia. Period. Ultra pure dark red black and blue fruits. The tannin level is so complex, we need another word for complex. This wine would appeal to the world-class claret drinkers out there. It is so claret like I needed to use the world again. Pure lush midpalate, with a finish that confounds. 24 months in oak, this amazing wine is a real treat of the senses. A Cabernet drinkers Shiraz. 96/100. ($80).
Last but certainly not least is a wine called 2005 Yangarra Cadenzia. Cadenzia seems to be a special McLaren Vale membership wine that at the moment there are only six of. A GSM blend, this one had all the stuffing’s: Elegance, structure, style, class, and…value. Lush and fragrant, this defies its price tag. $25. I defy you to find a better GSM blend for this money. I mentioned to the winemaker that after I have heard the spiel, I reckoned I would hear a price to match like say... $65ish? Nah, this is the super QPR of the day. 92/100
The problems I have found with many cabernet's coming out of Australia are usually the greenness, or over extraction. I wish I could find one comparable to the Napa style (Michael Chiarello, please don’t sue). For the most part they leave me wanting, and are unbalanced. I did find an interesting one or two though: The 2003 Jacobs Creek St Hugo had a smooth eucalyptus nose and palate. This harkened me back to Heitz Martha’s of yesteryear, if just for a super slight second. Deep red fruits and a smooth underlying tannin base. All this with a decent midpalate. Nice cocoa and tar notes were in the house as well and this begged for food, although I think the eucalyptus would tire out quickly. 89/100. The second was the 2004 Parker Estate First Growth. ($65). A great Bordeaux styled blend that had great dark ad red fruits with some cocoa, leather, anise, and tar. A nice bottle of wine, if a bit pricey. 90/100
The Shiraz was the stars of the day. Some worth seeking out. My palate still loves those cool climate Syrahs, where ever they may come from.
I show up half heartily and with a sour stomach to taste through these wines yesterday (1/24/2008). I must be nuts, right? Wrong.
I found some very interesting stuff amongst the ocean of typical Shiraz and blends. I have been very critical as of late, and may have been rough on Aussie Shiraz. For the most part, I do believe that the winemakers are adjusting toward the elegant styled, and leaving the bombastic style behind, and my tasting notes from yesterday reflects my thinking on this subject.
Too many of these wines were still monstrous fruit bombs though. I never changed my glass more than I did this day. The residue made my glass almost opaque on more than one occasion.
I worked my way around looking for familiar names first. I came across Green Point & Cape Mentelle. The latter was offering the 2004 Margaret River Shiraz, which was pretty great. Even better than the Reserve Shiraz which I found dry and austere. The Shiraz is from the Margaret River region on western Australia. Great blueberries and violets with smooth cocoa atop a wonderful mouth feel and lush tannin base. This is a complex wine with a great finish. I doubted the price and looked thrice, $25. 90/100. My second ‘find’ is the Yering Station 2005 Reserve Shiraz Viognier: This had a wonderful super elegance with boysenberry, white pepper, and blueberry. The Viognier added a slight floral note. This was a deep serious wine that goes on forever. I like the fact that it did not have a catchy name other than Shiraz Viognier. Very Rhone like, but keeping its roots firmly in Australia. A tremendous winner. 95/100. Next up was the 2004 Tintara Shiraz Reserve: I always have found the Tintara line-up a great qpr, and this Reserve is no different. The difference lies in its amazing classy styling of fruits and tannic structure. Wonderful refined dark fruits surrounded by the most deft tannin level I have ever experienced in a Tintara. Breed and finesse is abounding here. 93/100 ($50). My fourth ‘revelation’ wine is very different but still Shiraz: the 2005 Tyrrell’s wines DB 24: This was probably the single best wine I have ever tasted coming out of Australia. Period. Ultra pure dark red black and blue fruits. The tannin level is so complex, we need another word for complex. This wine would appeal to the world-class claret drinkers out there. It is so claret like I needed to use the world again. Pure lush midpalate, with a finish that confounds. 24 months in oak, this amazing wine is a real treat of the senses. A Cabernet drinkers Shiraz. 96/100. ($80).
Last but certainly not least is a wine called 2005 Yangarra Cadenzia. Cadenzia seems to be a special McLaren Vale membership wine that at the moment there are only six of. A GSM blend, this one had all the stuffing’s: Elegance, structure, style, class, and…value. Lush and fragrant, this defies its price tag. $25. I defy you to find a better GSM blend for this money. I mentioned to the winemaker that after I have heard the spiel, I reckoned I would hear a price to match like say... $65ish? Nah, this is the super QPR of the day. 92/100
The problems I have found with many cabernet's coming out of Australia are usually the greenness, or over extraction. I wish I could find one comparable to the Napa style (Michael Chiarello, please don’t sue). For the most part they leave me wanting, and are unbalanced. I did find an interesting one or two though: The 2003 Jacobs Creek St Hugo had a smooth eucalyptus nose and palate. This harkened me back to Heitz Martha’s of yesteryear, if just for a super slight second. Deep red fruits and a smooth underlying tannin base. All this with a decent midpalate. Nice cocoa and tar notes were in the house as well and this begged for food, although I think the eucalyptus would tire out quickly. 89/100. The second was the 2004 Parker Estate First Growth. ($65). A great Bordeaux styled blend that had great dark ad red fruits with some cocoa, leather, anise, and tar. A nice bottle of wine, if a bit pricey. 90/100
The Shiraz was the stars of the day. Some worth seeking out. My palate still loves those cool climate Syrahs, where ever they may come from.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Is the bloom off the rose? Cults in the 21st Century or ‘What the hell is going on here?’
With all the mailers arriving these days, a few really stick out: Levy & McClellan, Futo and Sloan. Sloan is in its 4th year of release and the price has gone from $165 to $325. L&M 2004 was $350 out of the gate (and now, their second offering is up $50!!). Futo was $200.
What the hell is happening here? These wines have almost no track record to speak of, save for Sloan, but yet the price increases are astronomical. With Harlan at $450 and Screaming Eagle at $500, it’s no wonder what the goal is? The $500 bottle of Cabernet. Will they stop there? Nah.
To understand what is going on one must know some history of the ‘Cult’. I think there was a real need in the market for a wine of promise and rarity back in the early 90s, (keeping in mind these wines were in the $50 range) That was the niche, to create a false market by making people think they were getting ‘exclusive’ wines that a great percent of wine lovers will never be able to find with out forgoing a months mortgage payment. Lists were quickly formed. Even wait-lists. These days Screaming Eagle sells on the secondary market for between $1300 and $3500 for certain vintages. Just last week even Bill Harlan has mentionedin an interview that he thouht the 1997 Harlan was over the top. Is he not a fan? The goal is to garner as many points from the critics as possible. When a wine is bestowed the elusive ‘100’.... look out! Mass hysteria ensues. Many Cults have been given that score, so it’s easy to track some history. The 2002 Sloan shot up to $600 on the secondary market! Some buyers I know never even held the bottle in their hands as their 3 bottles allocation went directly to their new owners right from the winery. Imagine? A staggering $1100-$1200 profit for doing…nothing, but to be on the 'list'.
The chase is on. These new offerings are a product of this phenomenon. That’s why everyone wants to get on the list, and then stay on the list (even through 'off' vintages) to get the next 100 pointer.
Ever drink a 100 point wine? I have, a few times. Funny, I usually don’t get it personally. They are usually great wines mind you but perfect? I do have some 92s and 94s (Pobega point’s that is) that were actually better than some 100 RPs. (in my humble estimation that is).
At the end of the day isn’t that what’s important? Drinking something that spins your wheels as opposed to some critic’s wheels? There will always be flippers for these wines, as there will always be buyers. The market always sets its own pace, and there is not anything we can do about it. Why should I care you ask? I care because this has an effect on the whole market and sends my 92 pointers (Pobega points that is) skyrocketing well above the comfort level. Everyone’s comfort level is different, but my personal one is about $50-$85. Sure I go above it from time to time (probably too much) but as my friend Ben Sherwin says "If you can't run wth the big dogs you gotta stay on the porch". My criteria for doing so is simple: I've got to taste the wine first, and only then will happily get behind a wine I love. Maybach comes to mind. Even when Chris Maybach told buyers to be patient, there were still some negative tasting notes floating around. People started publicly dumping their Maybach. Guess what happens next? Parker gave it a 95. No more dumping (both on and the wine itself). I happened to give it a 96 as well. Just 9 months too early.
I know of many wine buyers who seek the Screaming Eagles out just to have... a Screaming Eagle, not even knowing if they like the style! I also know there are true lovers of these wines. This is not a personal attack on you. Some I consider good friends as well.
Will this craziness ever end? Probably not. As long as I can find my Kuleto's ($40), Ehlers ($25), Realm's ($85), and Sorrel Canyons ($9), and still feed the kids, I won’t complain…..much.
Added 2/18/2008- The latest vintage of Screaming Eagle has just gone to mailer: $750.00 per bottle!!
Thoughts?
What the hell is happening here? These wines have almost no track record to speak of, save for Sloan, but yet the price increases are astronomical. With Harlan at $450 and Screaming Eagle at $500, it’s no wonder what the goal is? The $500 bottle of Cabernet. Will they stop there? Nah.
To understand what is going on one must know some history of the ‘Cult’. I think there was a real need in the market for a wine of promise and rarity back in the early 90s, (keeping in mind these wines were in the $50 range) That was the niche, to create a false market by making people think they were getting ‘exclusive’ wines that a great percent of wine lovers will never be able to find with out forgoing a months mortgage payment. Lists were quickly formed. Even wait-lists. These days Screaming Eagle sells on the secondary market for between $1300 and $3500 for certain vintages. Just last week even Bill Harlan has mentionedin an interview that he thouht the 1997 Harlan was over the top. Is he not a fan? The goal is to garner as many points from the critics as possible. When a wine is bestowed the elusive ‘100’.... look out! Mass hysteria ensues. Many Cults have been given that score, so it’s easy to track some history. The 2002 Sloan shot up to $600 on the secondary market! Some buyers I know never even held the bottle in their hands as their 3 bottles allocation went directly to their new owners right from the winery. Imagine? A staggering $1100-$1200 profit for doing…nothing, but to be on the 'list'.
The chase is on. These new offerings are a product of this phenomenon. That’s why everyone wants to get on the list, and then stay on the list (even through 'off' vintages) to get the next 100 pointer.
Ever drink a 100 point wine? I have, a few times. Funny, I usually don’t get it personally. They are usually great wines mind you but perfect? I do have some 92s and 94s (Pobega point’s that is) that were actually better than some 100 RPs. (in my humble estimation that is).
At the end of the day isn’t that what’s important? Drinking something that spins your wheels as opposed to some critic’s wheels? There will always be flippers for these wines, as there will always be buyers. The market always sets its own pace, and there is not anything we can do about it. Why should I care you ask? I care because this has an effect on the whole market and sends my 92 pointers (Pobega points that is) skyrocketing well above the comfort level. Everyone’s comfort level is different, but my personal one is about $50-$85. Sure I go above it from time to time (probably too much) but as my friend Ben Sherwin says "If you can't run wth the big dogs you gotta stay on the porch". My criteria for doing so is simple: I've got to taste the wine first, and only then will happily get behind a wine I love. Maybach comes to mind. Even when Chris Maybach told buyers to be patient, there were still some negative tasting notes floating around. People started publicly dumping their Maybach. Guess what happens next? Parker gave it a 95. No more dumping (both on and the wine itself). I happened to give it a 96 as well. Just 9 months too early.
I know of many wine buyers who seek the Screaming Eagles out just to have... a Screaming Eagle, not even knowing if they like the style! I also know there are true lovers of these wines. This is not a personal attack on you. Some I consider good friends as well.
Will this craziness ever end? Probably not. As long as I can find my Kuleto's ($40), Ehlers ($25), Realm's ($85), and Sorrel Canyons ($9), and still feed the kids, I won’t complain…..much.
Added 2/18/2008- The latest vintage of Screaming Eagle has just gone to mailer: $750.00 per bottle!!
Thoughts?
Friday, January 18, 2008
TN: 2002 Kuleto Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - REDUX
(1/18/2008) Youthful deep color. Intense sweet cassis on the nose. On the palate the first thing you notice the purity. There is an amazing smooth sweet cas
sis, dark cherry, and deep tar going on here. I am a big fan of the lush elegant style this wine brings. The mouthfeel reminds me of a top Pomerol. Sure, it's fat, but what's wrong with fat? This has a finely weaved tannin level and an 'in your face' (not in a bad) way acid level. The finish is long and smooth. This is still wonderful, and there is no sign of any change on the horizon. A great deal at $39. Recenty found for $25 and a SCREAMING deal at that. Glad I got me more. Drinks like a $100 bottle of Napa Cab...really. Holdng at 94. (94 pts.)
(2/25/2007)Ultra dark intense crimson color with the slightest purple edge. The nose shows some anise, currant, cherries, cassis, and espresso. On the palate there is a wonderful purity and lushness. A dark fruited medley with espresso and cocoa. This Cabernet has an amazing soft mouthfeeel and a lilt balance of fine tannins and acid. To me this is more of a drinking wine than a food wine. This is a truly special Cabernet, especially when you take into account its cost; $40. A modern day Napa QPR. Over the past few months this wine has evolved nicely. It has picked up much more character, and has ironed out its rough edges. Drinks like a $100 Napa, and that ain't easy to do. Wow (94 pts.)
sis, dark cherry, and deep tar going on here. I am a big fan of the lush elegant style this wine brings. The mouthfeel reminds me of a top Pomerol. Sure, it's fat, but what's wrong with fat? This has a finely weaved tannin level and an 'in your face' (not in a bad) way acid level. The finish is long and smooth. This is still wonderful, and there is no sign of any change on the horizon. A great deal at $39. Recenty found for $25 and a SCREAMING deal at that. Glad I got me more. Drinks like a $100 bottle of Napa Cab...really. Holdng at 94. (94 pts.)(2/25/2007)Ultra dark intense crimson color with the slightest purple edge. The nose shows some anise, currant, cherries, cassis, and espresso. On the palate there is a wonderful purity and lushness. A dark fruited medley with espresso and cocoa. This Cabernet has an amazing soft mouthfeeel and a lilt balance of fine tannins and acid. To me this is more of a drinking wine than a food wine. This is a truly special Cabernet, especially when you take into account its cost; $40. A modern day Napa QPR. Over the past few months this wine has evolved nicely. It has picked up much more character, and has ironed out its rough edges. Drinks like a $100 Napa, and that ain't easy to do. Wow (94 pts.)
Monday, January 14, 2008
1996 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve (USA, California, Napa Valley)
From magnum. This was from a recent winery release.
Medium garnet color. A wonderful pretty nose of sweet vanilla, eucalyptus, creme de cassis, and red fruits dominate in a very sexy showy way. The palate had intense creme de cassis,smooth sweet red fruits and a slightly overdone (to my taste) vanilla component. Some tar and leather. The tannins were completely resolved. A long finish completes this one. This was undeniably GdL. Showed much better than our BV GdL Vertical 18 months back. Peaking but in no danger for a couple of more years.
The recent cellar release and format (magnum) guaranteed a wonderful provenance. The Marilyn Monroe of the evening. Thanks to Steve E. for sharing this and all the magnums below.
92/100
Medium garnet color. A wonderful pretty nose of sweet vanilla, eucalyptus, creme de cassis, and red fruits dominate in a very sexy showy way. The palate had intense creme de cassis,smooth sweet red fruits and a slightly overdone (to my taste) vanilla component. Some tar and leather. The tannins were completely resolved. A long finish completes this one. This was undeniably GdL. Showed much better than our BV GdL Vertical 18 months back. Peaking but in no danger for a couple of more years.
The recent cellar release and format (magnum) guaranteed a wonderful provenance. The Marilyn Monroe of the evening. Thanks to Steve E. for sharing this and all the magnums below.
92/100
TN: 1996 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (USA, California, Napa Valley)
From Magnum. Nice brick red color. Not too expressive on the nose; some blackberry and some red currant. The palate shows smooth silky tannins, complex red and black fruits with some secondary notes of cigar box, tar, and mushroom. A very 'Mondavi' like wine indeed. This can stand well on its own, but when then higher rent (and not so higher rent) neighbors are in attendance, can lag a bit. A great food friendly was (as always). Interesting to see where this is at the moment. I just sampled the 2004 Mondavi Reserve last month and it was a stunner. Good to see such an 'Icon' back on track, and I am always happy to sample when I can. The Jack Nicholson of the evening. (you just know the movie will be good, if not great).
90/100
90/100
1996 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Selection
From Magnum. This had amazing deep garnet color, as these Mountain wines most times do. There was a typical slight funkiness (secondary?) I find with many Howell Mountain offerings. Some nice dark fruits filled the nose. The palate had a brambly fruit smorgasbord, some secondaries of cedar and leather, as well as an earthy quality. The tannins were slightly angular. I really preferred the taste to the smell of this wine. This still has much life. I commented that the BV nose on the La Jota palate would be an almost perfect wine (to me).
91/100
91/100
TN: 1996 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena)
This was liquid joy. An amazing deep color. The nose showed rich dark black fruits of plums and blackberries. The palate revealed a perfect balance of black fruits, tar, soy, vanilla and cedar box. An AMAZING tannin & acid hovered in the background. This was firing at full throttle. Elegance, breed, and class personified.
Every once in a while a bottle comes along that reassures ones belief; this wine was the Baryshnikov of the night. Wow.
Thanks Collin. I did not get a good enough look into the '96 Peter Michael Les Pavots to write a note.
95/100
Every once in a while a bottle comes along that reassures ones belief; this wine was the Baryshnikov of the night. Wow.
Thanks Collin. I did not get a good enough look into the '96 Peter Michael Les Pavots to write a note.
95/100
Friday, January 11, 2008
Offline planning or 'Why I should have my head examined'
Most of you know me from my CLONYC activities. I love putting these types of events together. They are hard work but well worth the outcome.
I would like to believe I have learned a thing of two about what is acceptable and not acceptable activity when attending these dinners. The people who become part of them are from all walks of life and many have become great friends of mine. When putting an offline together I strive to be fair to everyone involved. I have even kept my brother out of one because he was a bit late in responding back to me. I usually make a goal and try to work with the individuals in reaching it, on occasion offering wines at cost from my 'not very deep' cellar. If the theme is a vertical, (where the same wine from different vintages) I try and secure as many good vintages as possible. I have been known to shy away from off vintages in the past. I think some may have the wrong idea of my motives when doing so, but the reality is such: if I am going to go to the trouble and expense of a great dinner, I want the best possible examples of said wine present. There is usually a guest or two who has to 'source' the bottle. I especially avoid off vintages from these guests as the fairness is lost when they pay 50-60% less than others have paid for the better vintages. Not fair. One rule I have not really implemented is backups. I can see the importance of having backups, but reality usually kicks in and makes it tricky. I have thought long and hard about some ways to equally balance costs from guests. I have even thought of pairing two guests up to achieve some goals. Maybe I think too much.
One thing that has really stuck in my craw lately is large pours. Not fair. If there is 12 guests in attendance, and a bottle (750ml) has roughtly 26 ounces, it amounts to just slightly over 2 ounces per pour! More than once did the bottle run dry before the 12th guest got it. If I ever do a vertical again I will keep it 10 guests and share the cost of the last two bottles. I always prefer when the staff does all the pouring. An interesting wine pouring format evolved at the last CLONYC (credit must be given to Stephen and his staff at ZOE Soho); The staff poured 2 ounces per glass (even though we had 9 guests), leaving almost a third in the bottle. Initially I was curious to why, but after the second wine was poured I realised the benefit and knew I liked this format, as it gave the guests a chance to 're-visit' wines they liked, between flights while having the ability to actually taste wine #11, 12 &13 and still be being able to make conclusions and form lucid opinions on these wonderful wines. I myself have been to offlines where the last wine was WOTN, and I never even remember tasting it!
Many wines throw off sediment, even when young. When guest pour I specifically ask them to start each bottle (with the guest that had brought it), and pass it right. This ensures no one ever gets the sediment 'dregs' twice. If the staff is pouring I ask them to start at a different guest with each bottle.
As I already stated, these tastings/dinners are tremendous work, but well worth it. I do it because I love to do it. I always ask my guests for thoughts and comments and this time will no different. What say you?
I would like to believe I have learned a thing of two about what is acceptable and not acceptable activity when attending these dinners. The people who become part of them are from all walks of life and many have become great friends of mine. When putting an offline together I strive to be fair to everyone involved. I have even kept my brother out of one because he was a bit late in responding back to me. I usually make a goal and try to work with the individuals in reaching it, on occasion offering wines at cost from my 'not very deep' cellar. If the theme is a vertical, (where the same wine from different vintages) I try and secure as many good vintages as possible. I have been known to shy away from off vintages in the past. I think some may have the wrong idea of my motives when doing so, but the reality is such: if I am going to go to the trouble and expense of a great dinner, I want the best possible examples of said wine present. There is usually a guest or two who has to 'source' the bottle. I especially avoid off vintages from these guests as the fairness is lost when they pay 50-60% less than others have paid for the better vintages. Not fair. One rule I have not really implemented is backups. I can see the importance of having backups, but reality usually kicks in and makes it tricky. I have thought long and hard about some ways to equally balance costs from guests. I have even thought of pairing two guests up to achieve some goals. Maybe I think too much.
One thing that has really stuck in my craw lately is large pours. Not fair. If there is 12 guests in attendance, and a bottle (750ml) has roughtly 26 ounces, it amounts to just slightly over 2 ounces per pour! More than once did the bottle run dry before the 12th guest got it. If I ever do a vertical again I will keep it 10 guests and share the cost of the last two bottles. I always prefer when the staff does all the pouring. An interesting wine pouring format evolved at the last CLONYC (credit must be given to Stephen and his staff at ZOE Soho); The staff poured 2 ounces per glass (even though we had 9 guests), leaving almost a third in the bottle. Initially I was curious to why, but after the second wine was poured I realised the benefit and knew I liked this format, as it gave the guests a chance to 're-visit' wines they liked, between flights while having the ability to actually taste wine #11, 12 &13 and still be being able to make conclusions and form lucid opinions on these wonderful wines. I myself have been to offlines where the last wine was WOTN, and I never even remember tasting it!
Many wines throw off sediment, even when young. When guest pour I specifically ask them to start each bottle (with the guest that had brought it), and pass it right. This ensures no one ever gets the sediment 'dregs' twice. If the staff is pouring I ask them to start at a different guest with each bottle.
As I already stated, these tastings/dinners are tremendous work, but well worth it. I do it because I love to do it. I always ask my guests for thoughts and comments and this time will no different. What say you?
Monday, January 7, 2008
2001 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (USA, California, Napa Valley)
1/7/2008: Deep garnet color. Nice cassis filled nose with red cherries. The palate has some deep red fruits, wonderful currant. Crème de cassis. The mouth feel is a bit disjointed; the acid level is all over the place and the tannins have a bit of an edge. There is an elevated alcohol level as well. I wish this lived up to my expectations, as the last 7 or 8 were wonderful. Air helped most of its woes, but the alcohol remained high. Maybe a wayward bottle? Maybe drying up. (86/100)
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Friday Night Dinner: Focaccia, Veal Marsala & Saffron Pasta
Last night I was in a weird veal mood. I made a focaccia with calamata olive tapenade base, fresh basil and garden tomatoes. The veal was with marsala, artichoke hearts and capers.The pasta is Capunti with saffron, sage, rosemary, Locatelli and cream. Fresh basil finished it off.Not a bad night. Good for Hemingway too. (My 5 year old Maltese).
Sausage Pepper & Patatoes
I broke 3 cloves of garlic into olive oil and sautéed the sausage pieces, and then added the 1 large green and 1 large red pepper. Let the cook for a bit, salt and peppered and removed. The I placed a slightly par-boiled red potato and a 1 Idaho (cubed) into the sausage oil. covered and browned. I added 1 large sweet basil leaf (chiffonier).I continued cooking the sausage and peppers in another pan until peppers browned nicely. Salt & peppered the potatoes and viola! Dinner. Wine: 2004 Terrasses, Ventoux (Rhone)
Friday, January 4, 2008
2003 Sorrel Canyon Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 12/1/2007 (Super-QPR)
2003 Sorrel Canyon Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon.The foil cap says Windsor. The cork says Windsor. This very drinkable Cabernet is produced by Windsor Vineyards, those people who can put your name on wine to give to clients and the like. It differs in the fact that those old Windsors I have tried... always sucked. This is pretty pretty good. This wine is sold exclusively by Gary's Wine & Marketplace in New Jersey. They were pouring it when I visited so I gave it a shot, then another.
From my bottle a week later;
Dark color. Out of the gate the wine was a bit awkward, but within in hour it had shown signs of elegance and structure one rarely encounters at this price point. ($8.99)
Mocha, creme de cassis, lush black fruits, tar, coffee, and a very credible tannin level. As it sat in my glass it just got better and better. What a 9 dollar stunner!
Not much info on the web about this one, but give it a try and let me know what you think. I grabbed a case....
postscript;
I can't state this enough; anyone who likes Cabernet should find this wine. I have had it 10 times to date and it just amazes me how a wine like this can still be produced and sold for under $10!! Lush, deep dark fruit. Tasted blind I would place this at about $30-$40. Really. Some friends of mine have tried and have bought cases. People who have some pretty deep cellars I should add.
I get nada for recommending this. But keep this in mind; If my name were Bob, this would be impossible to get.
You owe it to yourself. No?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
