The wine gods have been kind to Napa Cabernet lovers

Given a fair chance, a frog can indeed turn into a prince. I know as I have witnessed this first hand (and still am witnessing such). The frog I speak of is the 2003 vintage of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Upon first impressions back in 2005 and 2006 I had noticed many were plagued with the issues of a troubled and rainy Cabernet harvest. Numerous (in my humble opinion) were insipid and thin, lacking structure and often over acidified and out of balance. The top estates of the Napa Valley are well expected to make good wines even in seemingly ‘off’ years, but coming off of two abysmal vintages like 1998 and 2000, were Cab lovers actually willing spend hard earned cash to find the gems? To date I must have tasted 200+ Cabernet Sauvignons from the 2003 vintage but none have impressed me more than a select few. Karl Lawrence wines are a good bet in an off year and the reserves much more so. I have had a few 2003 Karl Lawrence Dr Crane reserves that have been simply spectacular, and last nights 2003 Gemstone Yountville was no different (see below). There are some others in my list of maybe ten or so and the QPR of the group being the 2003 Long Meadow Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon. Happily, many of those ‘lesser’ wines I sampled way back when have become nicely drinkable when revisited today.

After being a big proponent against wines from this vintage, even going as far as blocking people from bringing them to my CLONYC dinners, I can safely say that I think…no, I know time has been gracious to this vintage. Add the best wines of this vintage to the bevy of phenomenal wines we are witness to right here and now, my usual saying of “What a great time to be a Napa Cab lover” takes on even more relevance. Compounded yet again with the fact that many top Cabernets from Napa ‘03 can usually be gotten for a fraction of their release prices and when viewed in the colored glasses of the dreary financial situation we find amongst us, not to mention the ‘hushly spoken of’ overstock of wines due to hit us soon enough, and amazing vintages that ‘keep-a-poppin’, all I can ask is: Are you ready?
Don't miss the train!

2003 Gemstone Yountville (USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville)

What a beautiful wine. This is still dark and ominous. The nose starts out all creme de cassis and black cherries. A super elegant plushness is really in control here. Fully resolved and firing on every cylinder this has it just maxes itself out for your benefit. Black fruits of currant, black berries and black cherries, there is a phenomenal balance to this: it had perfect acidity for a meal of wild boar, couscous with a blackberry reduction sauce. Pure and focused with style and pizazz, this is just amazing tonight. After about an hout this went to the red fruit side with cherries ruling. Even the color changed for the redder. Interesting indeed. A long and pure finish really ends the show here. I have not had this one in about 5 years, and it has really became something special. 95 pts

2004 Scholium Project Scythia Donati Vineyards (USA, California, Central Coast, San Benito County)

What can I say that has not been said before and probably by me in any of my other half dozen notes here? After I pulled a corked bottle from my cellar 2 months back when at dinner with Abe, I was anxious to open one again. It’s still pure and still firmly focused and awesome. There is not a rough edge to be found and I think this may be in its sweet spot right now. Black and blue fruits run the show with some low notes of warm bacon fat, river stones and blueberry compote. This actually gets a bit plushy in the middle and to the finish which long and elegant. This really still has it all. Fabulous.13 more stored away and happy for it. 96 pts

2005 Bennett Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (USA, California, Napa Valley)

This wine's best attributes are hidden. All the pieces are there, they just need to be given the time to come together cohesively. The nose is a quiet brand of black cassis and blackberry. Palate shows some nice purity and structure all wrapped within some black fruits of currant, blackberries, black cherries, and black plum compote. Some soft creme de cassis with a hint of Kirsch Royal liquor. Tannins are big and defensive but the balance is evident. Typical of the classic 2005 vintage, I like this ones style. I think I will like it better after some resolving & rest. There is a trace of alcohol on the finish as well, but the finish had all the fruit still showing through. I will call this 90 tonight with 93 the promise. Lots happening here, lets just bring it all together now, ok? :)

2006 Arnot-Roberts Syrah "North Block" Hudson Vineyard (USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros)

This wine is all about fragrance and the 'berry'. On sight its dark and ominous. The nose has all fresh cut flowers, small black berries, blueberry compote. Palate shows an amazing breed and structure--Hudson in the house. Its purity and precision is uncanny. Its tannins complicated but behaving. Balance is deft. A long berry filled finish brings this into the barn nicely. If I to find complaint, it's that this closed about an hour after opened. It went from big and showy to refined and quiet. Initially it was all nose. I think this still needs some time in bottle to show its fullest. Just a hair behind the 2005 overall. I do love this wine. 92 pts

2001 Elyse Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cask Morisoli Vineyard (USA, California, Napa Valley)

A very pretty nose of crushed red & black currant, creme de cassis and Kirsch with an interesting underlying creaminess. The palate brings all of that forward with the added bonus of some sweet black cherries, pomegranate, plum pudding, Asian tea, spring flowers and sun warmed river rock. It has a unctuousness about it that really shines through. A medium plus weighted wine with silky almost resolved tannins & perfect balance. Not a showy wine at all, but not exactly a wallflower either, this has some wonderful grace and structure. A wonderful interplay of red & black fruits. I think the 'Morisoli'ness shows in the prettiness and class this shows. A long finish really brings this one home. 93 pts

2004 Andrew Murray Syrah Roasted Slope (USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley)

Dark with tinged edges. The nose has warm blueberry pie, blackberries, spring flowers and cooled bacon fat. The palate shows a wonderful expression of California Syrah. There is great vibrancy of fruits with blueberry in the forefront. Included are black berries, black cassis liquor, sun warmed river stones, bacon fat, exotic spices and a hint of damp forest floor. Some vanilla shrouds this nicely and the tannins are well behaved. Balance it fantastic with acidity lying amongst the fruit as if it were kin. Mouth-feel keeping in the mid area with a touch of creaminess. I was surprised how well this showed tonight with some challenging foods of spicy fish sauces & vinegared salads. 92 pts

2005 Frazier Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (USA, California, Napa Valley)

This is super dark indeed. Purple edges. The nose is all black cherry and black cassis with a hint of cardamom. The palate shows an attack of pure Cabernet Sauvignon. You will not make a mistake on calling this if tasted blind. It's all black fruited and pure. There is the black currant, black cherry, blackberries and ripe black plum skin. Some exotic tea, some soy, some kirsch and some framboise. This is a mid-weight wine with chewy but not aggressive tannins and a lilty acidity. Somewhat two dimensional and exact in its approach, what I used to call Four-Square, this is all it could promise to be, and does not pretend to be anything other; Pure exact Napa Cabernet somewhere in the middle of both worlds, but tonight leaning to the more classic side. In this price-point it's tough to beat ($24), The finish is admirable. Yep, It's Cabernet!  91 pts

2006 Rockledge Cabernet Sauvignon The Rocks (USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena)

This has loads of stuffing; It just needs the patience to treat it right. 4 hour minimum decant on this. It is a tightly structured cab with tradition soaked into the molecules. Black cassis, black cherry, tar, soy, leather, cedar box, exotic tea. its all here; it just need coaxing. When it shows itself you will know what a classically cab is like if you never had one before. It's a medium to full bodied style with masculine tannins, nice balance, and it's all brawn. Not for the faint hearted. A long finish with all the black fruits remaining in play. If you are a Napa Cab lover you owe it to yourself to try this wine. It's everything many 2007 Napa cabs I have sampled are not. If you don't have the time to decant, don't bother. I can see this going for the long term. 93 pts

2007 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard (USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville)

(from CLONYC 21)

Hold onto your seats. This one is the ride of a lifetime. Its pure cab explosiveness on the nose. When I opened it at about 3pm my kitchen filled with its fragrant beauty. When poured later on it gained weight. Probably the most mouth coating wine I have ever experienced. Dark and ominous with goby layers of lush exotic fruits. Black cassis, crème de kirsch, pomegranate, and more. Deep and expressive--long and luxurious. An incredible balance with multi-faceted tannins and a lilty acidity. Wow. 7 Wine of the flight votes. 96pts

2007 Virage Vineyards (USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros)

Simply put: What a beautiful wine. Pop and pour. This has pretty hue of purple tinged crimson. The nose showed some bing cherries, red raspberries and red plums. A multi-layered joy to behold that just kept giving, this was bright and lively on the palate. There was zero of the negative stuff CF can have. Perfectly balanced and lilty with a purity and focus that tip toes over bind-boggling, this was a lite to mid-weight wine initially but after about an hour this gained some weight as well as some black fruits of currants and black plum. A luscious and plush CF blend that has structure, breed and elegance. It crescendos into a long opulent finish. Fantastic. (94 pts.)

2006 Audelssa Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (12/12/2010)

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 1 hour decant. Pretty ruby red with neon edges. Nose of black cherry, sassafras & red plums. Palate shows those fruits with an intensity that is pretty great. A very focused and vibrant Cabernet that shows a cool cab profile. Its floral and fragrant with cherries on top. There is a cherry Herring liquor quality that I find fascinating. It could be dangerous if over-done, but for the moment it stays pleasing. A medium weight mouth-feel with firm structure. Tannins are refined but ever-present. A near perfect balance. The dark fruits style on the tongue long after the wine has gone down. There is the ever so smallest hint of cool menthol on the tail end as well. What a great QPR. I might have to go back for more. (91 pts.)

2007 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley (12/11/2010)

The single best Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve I have ever had, and I had many. Dark an ominous. A nose of all black cassis, lead pencil, black plum and cola. The palate shows a deep and focused Cab with gobs of layers that keep evolving. Cool licorice and black cassis with Kirsch & Framboise, plum, and tar. This is a serious wine that deserves 10 minutes of pure meditation, and then hours of continuous enjoyment. There is some complicated nuances of oak with some underbrush present; some cocoa, cedar box, and tea-leaf. The tannins keep the complication alive as they are omni-present and luxurious. there is a sweet underlying quality that I really like; there must be at least 5 layers to this wine. A medium to full-throttle leaning mouthfeel that has almost a 'sweet and cool' lushness to it. The finish just....goes. This is a show stopper; the schnizzle we all ever really wanted from GdL. (96 pts.)

Eating crow -or- tasting the 2000 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon (USA, California, Napa Valley)

A few months back these were available for deep discount at WineWoot.com where-as I had placed foot in mouth when some friends asked my opinion and said that it was most definitely a pass due to vintage. Well, even at 49 I can learn a thing or two, and hope I am all the better for it. Within a half a day I received an email from Cathy Corison telling me I should taste this wine, that I would be surprised with it. I have and I am.

Hey Cathy, nice job!

2000 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (12/10/2010)
Pop and pour. Dark mature edges on a crimson base. Super bright nose of sweet cheery pie, sweet anise, red currants and red raspberries, all in a big bouquet of spring flowers. Very interesting and inviting. The palate is all cool red fruits with tons of structure and finesse; there are some red currants, red raspberries compote, bright bing cherries, a hint of tart plums, some tar, worn leather, and graphite. There is a wonderful mid-weight and somewhat lush & creamy feel to this one. The finish is long and exact. Interestingly, I have never really had a 2000 Napa Cab that I really really liked, or should say experienced any that did not exhibit at least some of the problems inherent of the vintage; they always seemed a bit manufactured, fake or cloying. This has broken the mold and is a revelation to me. It’s a very pretty and most certainly a Bordeaux-like Cabernet, something I always believed was Corison’s house style. Definitely a very different style than many being made these days and although not the style I usually seek, this is a winner. Drink now and enjoy. Should hold on for a few years. (92 pts.)

2005 Summerland Syrah Single Vineyard Collection Bien Nacido Block X (USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley)

Deep dark color, almost opaque. Purple red edges. Nose of cherry cola soda and black cherries. The palate is medium in weight slightly elevated in acidity, but all in all a very round a full Syrah with tons of class and pizzazzzzz. This screams California, and that's a good thing. There are some crushed stones, ripe black berries, clack currant, bacon fat, blueberry tart and more. A long finish closes it out nicely. A nice Syrah that drinks well above its station. If this pops back onto WTSO, I am jumping....... 91 pts

2007 Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon (USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena)

Color is more red than black. Opaque. The nose has a sweet cherry and vanilla wrapped red currant quality. Palate has explosive reddish black fruits with cherry first and foremost, then some raspberry and sour cranberries. Oak is a bit elevated as is the alcohol in the form of dry finish. Very awkward and blowsy, this really fits what I had expected of it for the vintage. These are somewhat flamboyant in a classic year, in 07 this is 4 fold. I wish I could wrap my palate around it. Maybe 10 years might help, but I could also imagine it not. I could imagine it drying up and fading away. Too bad.

2006 Drew Family Cellars Syrah Broken Leg Vineyard (USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley)

Dark color with purple-crimson edges and a nose of sweet red cassis/currant, cherries and raspberries. The palate shows some great breed. There is bacon fat, warm blueberry pie, cherry compote, crushed river rocks and more. Some violets show toward the mid palate and there is a real perfumey quality (eau de cologne) that pops in as you remove the glass from your mouth. Very intriguing. A extremely balanced wine that has its tannins in check and acidity fluttering right above the mid-palate. Something between new world and the best of the old world minus the funk. A long finish with the dark fruits in memory for more than a minute. I have had some Drew bottlings in the past and they always deliver the good. 92 pts

2002 Emilio's Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville)

20 minute decant. Crimson-black with carmine edges. The nose is all currant, black cherry & graphite. The palate reveals some expressive notes of cocoa, cassis, kirsch royal, black plum, & creamy plush stuff, all good. the tannins seem resolved and balance really tight. There is some good symmetry going on here, some goood structure in the middle weight fighting category. Class is evident. Some cola pops in Mid-palate and a hint of cedar & mint show themselves. A decent finish all in all. If I had to find fault (and why would I?) I would say somewhat 'typical', but maybe that's not a flaw at all. A pretty nice example of a 2002 Napa cab and I would expect no less when the word 'Reserve' is on the label (maybe that's why I went a-lookin'). A great deal from this past summers Winebid bonanza and pretty good qpr for $25 per. 91 pts

2006 Cloud View Pritchard Hill (USA, California, Napa Valley)

Purple tinged edges on crimson. Nose a bit subdued. There is some very evident pizazz here. Dark cherry cola, black currant, some pomegranate, some soy, some leather. A very plush wine with a medium bodied mouth-feel. Large formatted tannins on a silky acidity base that rides a bit high, but not too much so. There is a dryness from the middle out that really never lets up. A long finish for a few minutes closes this one. There is a certain classy element here. I can see what Mondavi see as far as potential for his Continuum label. Though not for the faint of heart, I might like to revisit in 2 years. It will be a stunner. 91 pts

2003 Double Diamond (Schrader) Cabernet Sauvignon Mayacamas Range (USA, California, Sonoma County)

Still vibrant. The nose is all sweet cherry-cola. Palate shows some pretty good cab qualities of black currant, black cherries, Kirsch, and smoke. Interesting. It is a wee-bit simple, but for the price paid, a home-run ($15). A medium weight wine with some plushy goodness. Pretty long finish with fully resolved tannins and a almost imperceptibly elevated acidity that worked pretty well with chicken Milanese with a lightly dressed white balsamic & olive oiled Boston lettuce salad. Great deal and qpr. This has held up well and I will seek more for the right price. 90 pts