Saturday, August 28, 2010

2002 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

Last one. 30 minutes decant. Red ruby and pretty transparent for a Cabernet. The nose is all intense red & black fruits with camphor, leather, cedar shavings, and Kirsch. Palate has all this with focus on the reddish fruits. Cherries and sweet plums with red-raspberries that linger on and on. The mouth-feel is somewhat light to medium with a cornucopia of all cabs red fruits. There is a lead pencil thing which reminds one of a good Paullliac, when I drank that sort of thing. (Think Les Forts de Latour, or a Pichon. Baron, not Lalande) . Some spice-box, some damp forest floor, I mean ground. The tannins have a slight edge to them. Nothing negative, just dictates more time needed. Acidity is Mondavi-high--It's a lot like Rocky Mountain High, but different. This is a foodies wine. Its floral, and very pretty with purity that carries most of its heft toward the finish which is long and goodie filled. Very nice showing tonight. I would not rush to this. It sure is better than it was 3 years ago though. (91 pts.)

Friday, August 27, 2010

2005 Domaine Georg Rafael Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder

Dark as expected. What was not expected was the glossiness and pureness this exhibited, remember, It's a 2005 Napa Cab. It is very dark fruited and tightly structured without any tannic edge whatsoever. Black cherry and black current rue the roost with some rhubarb pie, leather, exotic spices and ripe black plum rounding it out. Wonderful balance and silky mouth -feel, creamy texture and focus, this really pleases all the senses and hits all my right spots. Long finish with recent-reminiscent black fruits ending the show nicely. A classically styled Cabernet with elegance & grace. Drank alongside my favorite lobster and shrimp cakes, seaweed and vegetable salad with thai curry coconut sauce, this really carried it all well. No small feat & no surprise since it's a Tom Farella Cabernet made with estate fruit. One to watch. Tremendous QPR (93 pts.)

Monday, August 23, 2010

Eating through my youth.

It's no mystery that the people we are today is thanks to no small part of who we were yesterday. I was a skinny long haired street kid with an eye for the pretty girls and friends too numerous to count. Food played a big part in my 'growing up in Brooklyn' experience.

I had never even heard of Chef Boyardee's SpaghettiOs until I was about 15 after my brother had turned to them while my parents were away for a few days. Even early on, I could never bring myself to it; Jack's Grocery is where I could be found at such a time; homemade rare roast beef hero, piled about an inch thick, with yellow American cheese, mayo and black pepper. Manhattan Special was always the drink of choice. If I was extra hungry, I would order a 3/4 size hero or maybe some fresh potato salad in a cup--My size 28 army fatigues or chinos knew no limits.

My mother could always be found in the general area of the oven (remember, this is the day before the two income households became the norm), be it eggplant parm, tender veal & peppers in a red sauce, numerous chicken dishes , fried pork chops and rice, potato & egg sandwiches or meatballs & sausages in the Sunday gravy with home made raviolis or manicotti. (We had a tune we sang to the Village People's 'In The Navy': 'In the gravy, that's where you mother puts the meat'). One loaf of crusty Italian bread was relegated just for dipping while we waited picked on some cold antipasto. Earlier in my life, I have memories of ‘gravy sandwiches’ which is exactly what they sound like; only when I turned about 12 or 13 did I move onto meatball or sausage sandwiches. There was always a ton of food, just in case someone popped in, and pop-ins were numerous, especially our friends, who always called mom 'mom', just as we did theirs. If I made the run to the corner for the days Italian bread chances are that the breads 'asses' would be missing by time I got home, and I always got grief for it. It's a little habit my grandfather Frank taught me when I was about 4 while walking back from the bakery on Knickerbocker Ave. I can still hear my grandmother Carmella yelling at him in her broken English. If I say my mom is a great cook, my grandmother was an INCREDIBLE cook. People would go out of their way to stop in on Sundays just to be served something Carmella had on the stove. I have vivid memories of about 15 people sitting around the huge table. Early in her life she had and unfortunate accident when a bottle exploded in her hands and her palms had been sewn together in the emergency room since there was no extra household money to have them seen to correctly, resulting in nerve damage. Today I can still recall in my minds eye standing on that cold linoleum floor that so badly needed replacing, as she measured ingredients with her cupped hand.

Back in our house one night a week was for slumming', usually Mondays where we might have had Sabrett hotdogs (because that's what the ‘dirty water’ vendors sold in the city) and beans or maybe just Sunday's leftovers. I can tell you that no-one ever complained (remind me at a later date to tell you the story why my dad threw a fully loaded dog, 'kraut' and all at my head during a heated dinnertime 'discussion'; we still speak of it). Funny, because it was also a hot dog that I had choked on that made my dad proclaim he would never take me to another ballgame again. (Shea Stadium, circa 1965). He did anyway.

Some misnomers I have carried through my life; To this day I still believe shaken milk is colder; ripped Italian bread tastes better than cut.

And then there was the 2 inch grasshopper in my sautéed spinach story...(how's that for 'fresh!). For a treat on some Saturdays , we would have 'steak sandwiches'; Fridays might be take-away Chinese food. We all had out own preferences, I preferred Szechuan, my parents, Cantonese. I liked that my place put thinly chopped lettuce into the 'Special' spicy fried rice. As I got older the discussion on where to order from always took place. In the end, he who paid, selected. My special fried rice would have to wait for my walk by. Pizza was 50 cent a slice and wonderful. My friends and myself could always be found in Pino’s on bath Avenue, or Lenny’s on 86th street. We were fans before Travolta stacked his slices. Who did that silly move anyhow? Nobody I knew (the producers must have missed that in their 'local color' research'.

Once I started working (13), I always had my own funds for food. On Fridays, I would always treat my 'non-working' friends to Carmines Hot Dog truck across from Jr. High 281; hot dog heroes for all! This was an amazing combo of 2 'water dogs' in a perfectly fitted piece of Italian bread with spicy mustard served off of a spinning wooden stick, all for a buck--- including drink. Carmine had great NY style pretzels as well, not that crap you see today. More mustard please!

Mom's creations on holidays were usually lasagna and..... Lasagna and turkey, Lasagna and ham, Lasagna and beef roast. Birthday’s were choice (3 brothers and a younger sister who did not need a holiday to get her way). I always chose raviolis; I once ate 24 at one sitting and I was very proud of myself. Christmas eve was all the fish. My favorite was steamed scugilli with a hot sauce and a hard Italian biscuit that had to be soaked in water before even attempting to bite into. We always had 3 types of shrimp but the fried never lasted very long. Lobster tails in marinara with linguine, fried lemon sole (which only my parents ever ate), and golden deep fried calamari rings with a perfectly seasoned marinara sauce. It was amazing just watching her ‘in her element’. Christmas day was everything and anything you might imagine; we would start at noon and would not leave the table until 6 pm. Mom made it all look so easy. I know I got my love for cooking from her. I remember visiting with aunts and uncles, there was always something that had to wait on the back burner for everything else to be completed, usually meaning it was cold, mushy, or something over-thickened because of the waiting. To this day that is still one of my cooking pet peeves, again because my moms timing was spot on! Today, when I say ‘dinner!’ you can be sure everyone shows up quickly, else I will hunt them down.

These days my mom says that I am a better cook than she; imagine how I must feel with such a glowing review. My dad does not agree--he actually did not eat my food, until just recently. I think he feels in a way he is 'cheating' on her, and god-forbid he likes it!

Simple times & great days indeed!

2006 Jones Family The Sisters (USA, California, Napa Valley)

45 minute decant. Dark and ominous with red crimson edges. The nose is ungiving today, (more after an hour) but the palate is spot on, as usual. There is cassis driven black fruits with Kirsch Royal, pomegranate, clove, blackberries, black cherry, black and red raspberries. Its deep and plush with a fantastic balance. Tannins in check, acidity doing the high-wire. Decent plus finish. It's pure and enjoyable with out being complicated an ponderous. As a matter of fact, I have finally figured this wine out: THAT is this wines strength; clean, uncomplicated pleasure with elegance and some tight structure, all wrapped in a fifty dollar package and doesn't want to be anything but.Indeed. (93 points)

Friday, August 20, 2010

2006 Audelssa Estate Winery Summit (USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley)

Consistent. Ruby red-garnet. Nose: Both black and some reddish currants are here as well as some sharp black cherry and lead pencil. A very dignified and classy wine. The palate has mouth coating glycerin with a medium to light weight feel. There is the currants and black cherry, but also some blackberries, black ripe raspberries, as a matter of fc, he profile changes to all black toward the mid-palate. Very cool. Tannins are big and slightly bruiser-ish, never really getting a blow to your face, this has some wonderful lilty balance and a very lively acidity that work both with food, and nicely without. Th finish has very much 'gained weight' from my last showing. It's long, precise and pure. Minutes later you still sense the first moments of the taste. More Napa-ish this time around, this is deep and well structured. There is lots of character in this character.(94 points)

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

2000 Château Pavie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

Opened 6 hours earlier. This was dark with crimson edges. The nose was black cherry and cassis driven. The palate showed some wonderful intertwined red and black fruits of cherries, cassis, pomegranate, and red plums. It had a super-pure and hint of a lush mouth-feel that was amazingly precise and focused. The tannins were clean and aligned with nary a hard edge showing, but I am sure there is more resolving to do. Velvety smooth hiding a hint of brawn. Wow, this really had it all: ground coffee, creme de cassis, Kirsch Royal, tar, worn leather, sun warmed stones, some dried herbs, some vanilla bean and more. A structure that was near mind boggling, this walked the tight rope of balance like a Wallenda brother at the height (pun intended) of his career. The finish went on for a minute and a half, and the fruit never let up. Ever. Sheer joy. (97 pts.)

Saturday, August 7, 2010

2006 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red (USA, California, Napa Valley)

1 hour decant. Dense reddish color, light edges. Almost 'murky'. Almost.
Nose of sassafras, macerated black cherry, red raspberry and wild flowers highlighting violets. Very pretty indeedy. The palate displays some amazing soft reddish black fruits of bing cherry, red currant, ripe pomegranate, and a wee hint of tart gooseberries; very interesting. Mouth-feel is medium and plushy with some softness. Very elegant and floral, this is just shooting from the lass as I write. Wow. Tannins are big but under control and overall balance very precise and focused. A hint of Framboise lingers very long. This really is an incredible bottle of red wine. Hold or enjoy now. I am.

81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot & 1% Malbec

Thursday, July 22, 2010

2006 Forman Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley

45 minute double decant.The color is deep black with bright purple tinged edges. The nose is cardamom and black cherry/sassafras. The palate attacks, and I do mean attack with plushy black and blue fruits that are just gushing with flair. A very different road for Ric Forman indeed. There is much to pay attention to with this: black currants, black plum, forest floor, some menthol, some soy, some lead pencil, some creme de cassis, and a noticeable dollop of Kirsch Royal. A medium to heavy weight mouth feel, this has a real great sense of balance and structure, but some elegance is hiding amongst the rogue elements. Wonderful intertwined tannins with a lilty acidic base, this is a real stunner. Black and ominous, this is very Californian in its style. Grabbed a few on a deal last month. Well worth $35, hell, well worth $65. Glad I have a few more. Good to go for the next half dozen years or so-- but what the hell do I know? 92 points

Friday, July 16, 2010

2005 Realm Cellars The Tempest - USA, California, Napa Valley

Super dark and luxurious, this is pure and precise. Nose has all black-cherry and cassis with some cedar box and soy. Wonderful mouthfeel that is medium in body and plush, kirsch and black plum. Tannins are bulky but aligned and still in need of resolving. I have always been a fan of this one from the Realm 05 lineup, more so than any any merlot heavy vintage on either side of the vintage. As a matter of fact, this is the Tempest with the most (52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 18% Petit Verdot.) Cabernet Sauvignon in the history of the label (source: Coombsville). Some red cherries pop out toward the end of this. Very dimensional with tons of structure. Much more weight than my last time with it. Very nice indeed. 94 points

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Just an average Saturday afternoon at the Pobegas.....

:)

No formal notes taken. Just impressions, or 'snapshots' if you will.

2008 Rivers-Marie Chardonnay Thieriot. Fragrant and showy, while being racy and precise. It really is all about the fruit with these. I enjoy the freshness and balance.

2007 (Blind) Scarecrow. Really needed to breath and be served a wee bit cooler (Started out a bit hot, and hot as in heat), but when treated right, this really blew everything else away. Pure, precise and just awesome. Deep and dark, this had creme de cassis, blackest berries, kirsch and cola. Just mind boggling in its plushy mouthfeel. Best showing of a Scarecow for me yet. Makes me wish I had some.

2001 Karl Lawrence Cabernet Sauvignon. Great texture, wonderful black fruits. Really first class showing.

2004 Schrader To Kalon. Some greenness and a bit of heat which blew off. Beautiful mouth feel and structure, The greeny thing had me confused a bit though as I never have encountered it in a TRB wine before. Plush and dark. Interesting to watch this one over the last few years.

2005 Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon. A very four square cab style. All the elements I enjoy Shafer for save for maybe a bit of depth and structure. Very nice

2003 Rubicon. Soft, pretty and elegant and maybe just a slight manufactured thing of the vintage I encounter from some 03s and most 00s. Interesting to have on the table.

2001 Axios. Wow, this really had it all and was firing on all cylinders. I have always been a fan on the Egelhoff cab style. This was boisterous and flamboyant while still maintaining the class and structure I expect from the vintage. An early wotn until the second showing of the Scarecrow.

2005 Cliff Lede Cabernet Napa. What an amazing structured cabernet. Great black and red fruits with wonderful balance and style. One I will seek on QPR value alone.

2002 Blair Estate 50% Cab, 27% CF, 23% Merlot. An interesting blend for sure. Style class and bright red and black fruits is all I can remember.

Monday, July 5, 2010

2007 Snowden Cabernet Sauvignon The Ranch - USA, California, Napa Valley

30 minute decant. Deep dark garnet color, almost opaque with the slightest crimson edges. Dark black cherry nose with some sarsaparilla, cardamom, creme de cassis, and clove. A very elegant, but somewhat reticent style of cab. I sensed that for as much was showing itself, another equal dose was hiding. Very plush mouth-feel with some 'almost' gobby black fruits of black currant, black cherry, and plums. A very iron fist/velvet glove cab that I really enjoy. A medium weight cab with some complicated chewy tannins and wonderful balance. The acidity is perfect, the finish commendable. Uncle Bob might have got this one right. Should drink well for the next 6 or so years. Glad I have 2 more. (93 pts.)

Friday, June 25, 2010

2004 Scholium Project Scythia Donati Vineyards

11:47 AM-Just poured it into my glass. It's still cool, but early indications are to WOW. Stay tuned!

12:05 PM-I don't know much, but what I do know is this is one incredible mother of a Syrah. Its almost alive with fresh creamy fruits, river rock, super balance, and just so much more.
Probably one of the best Cali Syrahs I have ever had in my life.
Note to follow....


1:49 PM-A pleaser as usual. This is dense and dark. The nose is all violets, blueberry cobbler, sun warmed river stones, sassafras, blackberry, pomegranate and more. Poised and almost perfect the delivery is lively and focused, but playful enough for burgers. Acidity somewhat elevated to really carry all forward conveyor belt like all the mentioned goodness. The tannins are structured and evolved, this really has it all. The finish is ultra smooth and pure, and it goes on and on for minutes. Wowser. (96 pts.)


2:31-Gone!




Friday, June 18, 2010

2001 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon

Dark and ominous, this was tight out of the gate (as expected for pop and pour). Within minutes it started shedding its armore and black fruits started emerging. Wow, this is pure and precise with tones of refined black fruits of currant, blackberry and black plum. Some real nice cola notes amidst some tar, cardamom and soy. I kept this in my glass all night. It evolved, but in the super-flight at the end of the night, my new pour seemed a bit tired and fading. Still, all in all a very great Hillside from a classic vintage will always please in my book. 95

2002 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Ready for this? This is one of the most incredible cabernets that I have ever had. It had everything a Napa Cabernet drinker could, should ever want. Depth, elegance, structure, and reverence, all wrapped around some sweet black fruits of macerated currants and black cherries--Bing cherries—maybe maraschino cherries. Stellar and precise, this had lead pencil shavings, soy, worn leather, crème de cassis, kirsch, river stones, and more. Almost mystifying depth and purity that one can make cabernet dreams of. Made me want to find my pillow tout suite. 100 points!

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Jones Family Vineyards Retrospective

Last evening I had the pleasure of meeting with Daniel Bailey from Jones Family Vineyards & winery. He brought east with him 6 vintages of his flagship estate Cabernet, as well as 2 vintages of his second wine, The Sisters. Daniel Posner of grapes the Wine Company played host.

I have been a fan of Jones family for some time now, always capitalizing on locating older back vintages whenever possible. The Sisters is a perennial favorite of mine, one I buy by the case every year. It represents what I believe to be the single best deal in the whole valley, year in and out. Daniel Bailey was informative and friendly. Great wines, great time, wonderful people.

Jones Family Vineyards

2000 Jones Family Estate Cabernet: The first thing you notice upon bringing the glass to your face is vegetalness. The second thing upon entering the mouth—same. Disjointed, weedy, sweet, and undrinkable. Possibly an off bottle?

2001 Jones Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: Deep blackish color with red edges. The nose is pure kirsch and framboise. Some great black currant. All carries to the palate with some amazing precision. There is some black cherry, crème de cassis, cola, tat, leather and cedar. Really shows off a classic styling. The tannins got a bit dusty/gritty as this sat in my glass, not distracting though. This is long and elegant. 93

2003 Jones Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: This had some admirable qualities for the vintage. It had a sweet fabricated red fruit profile with some red cherries and ripe red plum notes. Seemed a bit tired. Drink up! 89

2004 Jones Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: Slightly fatter than the previous. Good structure. Deep red black fruit profile encroaching into the black zone. Soft tannins, nice balance. Some Kirsch and black raspberries in a creamy plush mouthfeel. Decent finish, this is very pretty and delicate. 92

2005 Jones Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: Loud and boisterous, this is firmly structured with deep red & black fruits of macerated currant, blackberries, pomegranate, and black plum. More delineated than all that came before it, save for the 2001, this is pure and focused with some tightly knitted tannins. 93

2005 Jones Family The Sisters: This seemed a bit more restrained than all my past experiences with it. It still retains some great dark fruit, but the plush mouthfeel has quieted down some. It seems more in line with the 04 than the 05 estates. I always believed this to be one to enjoy young(er). A decent black fruit profile with black cherry reigning. I still have 6, and it will be interesting to see where this goes in the next few years. 91

2006 Jones Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: Now we’re talking: sweet red fruits profile with a creamy texture, this has the purity and elegance I want, all supported by the structure and backbone, the strength of the 06 vintage in general, at least in my mind. Cardamom, framboise, kirsch, blackberry, black and red cassis, plums, and so much in here to mention, this is real joy. A hint of black pepper? Maybe. It has super-structured tannins with such a tight-rope act of acidity. A very long pure finish that goes minutes, its palatial omnipresence is just difficult to ignore, this is really a wonderful bottle of Napa Cab. Wow 95

2006 Jones Family The Sisters: Not unlike its older sibling, this really packs it in, save for maybe a bit of elegance and structure, but make no mistake, this is one schnizzle of a $50 cab. Pure, clean, and lively, this has much to offer, and all at $50. Black fruits, plush mouthfeel, elegance, purity, structure and more.The best Sisters I have had, continues to be so. 94

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

2006 Holdredge Syrah - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

Great vibrant see-through color. The nose is a bit closed at first. After about an hour this really sings: There is warm bluberry pie, blood orange, wild flowers & black cherry. This really showed well/better with food. (Wild Boar sausages, wild mushroom couscous, black berry reduction). Fragrant and pretty beautiful, this belied its price-point by 2x. Palate has all the goodness and then some: Blueberry, white pepper, some bacon fat, soy and river stones. Great medium to light weight mouthfeel, it almost reminded me of Pinot early on, but by hour 1, there was no mistake. Great long finish. What really sellls this wine is the fragrance of the blood orange, blueberry & wild flowers. Very Northern Rhone-like indeed. What a great QPR. (91 pts.)

Saturday, June 5, 2010

2006 Bacio Divino Cabernet Sauvignon Janzen Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley

Color is dark amber with purple tinged edges. he nose reveals very little. After 2 hours:A quiet but confident reddish black fruit profile of black cherry, cassis, and black berry. Some Cola comes through as well. The palate initially shows a slight hollowness and alcohol. After 2 hours: This really has come together nicely. The hole has been filled: Deep dark cassis driven. This has some sassafras, creme de kirsch, leather, pencil shavings, a hint of cocoa powder and cedar. Very medium weight with a plush silky mouthfeel. It's amazing how this has evolved in the glass. Its now balanced with some finely aligned tannins. Very pretty & very promising, I might open another in 2 years. Surely not before. The finish is long and elegant. Well worth the $29 I paid from WTSO, but I might not have thought so 2 hours ago, Miraculous recovery! (92 pts.)

2006 Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny (France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny)

Not one to ever be pigeon holed as a cab only guy, I like to venture out of my comfort zone from time to time, and yes, although those times are far and few, I can live with that.
This has wonderful powdery red color with the almost imperceptible brick edges. The nose gives very little, but what little there is is joyous. Pretty spring flowers amidst some wonderful huckleberry, sassafras and sun warmed river rocks. Some red cherry, some black cherry, and a hint of soy that really never lets up. Gorgeous and elegant, this is really a 90 degree turn or my regular drink, but I can appreciate the change-up. It's balanced with such a lilthy acidic bounce, the tannins are meshed and complicated well beyond what I would have expected. A super long finish that last minutes, this really is a pretty wine. For $29, I can see how well it fits into my repertoire for summer enjoyment. (91 pts.)

Monday, May 31, 2010

2004 Jones Family The Sisters - USA, California, Napa Valley (5/30/2010)

45 minute decant. Immediate impression: Just Beautiful.
Vibrant crimson red with a black core, almost opaque. The nose is all pure cassis driven black fruits, black cherry, flowers and cardamom. The palate continues the theme. Creme di cassis, kirsch, black cherry, Cola, black currant, black plum, wow. Pure, elegant and regal, this is just really showing so nice. Deftly balanced with gobs of plushy stuffing. A medium weight wine that flows across the tongue with such ease, it will be hard not to finish this bottle within an hour. It is intense and focused. Tannins are in check. The finish goes on and on 'and don't stop 'until the break of dawn'. A super QPR indeed, the peicepoint of this wine defies its showing--2 to 3 fold.

I ...have...run .......out....... of ..............things .....to........ say. (94 pts.)

Thursday, May 27, 2010

1998 Peter Lehmann Mentor (Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley)

Tasted blind. Brick color, browned edges of wine its age or older. The nose has some black cherry and black olives. The palate has some lushness that is very comforting. As this sits it builds its red fruit profile quickly: some currant, some black cherries, and some sassafras. Some soy, leather, and a hint of vanilla are in there too, as is just the hint of faded vegetalness. There is a hint of elegance proving these can really benefit from some bottle age. The tannins are fully resolved (last had this about 2 years back) and shows an overall deft balance. A clean and smooth finish that goes on for more than a minute. What a nice drop from down-unda'.